Is Cotton Bad for the Environment?

Cotton's role as a key crop in global agriculture is undeniable. This natural fibre supports the livelihoods of over 250 million people and dominates half the world's textile market. At the heart of this issue lies conventional cotton farming practices. These practices are known for heavily relying on water, pesticides, and fertilisers.

These practices strain our natural resources and threaten biodiversity and human health. Cherished for its versatility, durability, and comfort, it has been a staple in the textile industry for centuries. However, its environmental footprint has come under scrutiny in recent years.

These factors underline the pressing need for sustainable cotton production initiatives. Initiatives spearheaded by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and the Better Cotton Initiative aim to mitigate impacts on freshwater systems. They also seek to improve cultivation practices worldwide.

As we delve into the complexities of cotton's environmental footprint. This analysis will unpack critical issues such as water consumption, pollution, and the viability of cotton as a degradable and recyclable material. 

Cotton, a natural fibre, has been pivotal in the fashion industry since the fifth millennium B.C. Its origins trace back to ancient civilisations, showcasing its long-standing importance in human history. Cotton is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions worldwide, including the Americas, Africa, and Asia. 

The versatility is evident in the array of items in a typical closet, including Plain cotton, Dyed cotton, and Cotton mix. The fibre is often spun into yarn or thread to make a soft, breathable textile. This is the basis for most clothing items we wear today.

Europeans encountered cotton production during the late Middle Ages through the Islamic conquest of the Iberian Peninsula, marking a significant turning point in its global spread. 

Cotton fabric is highly valued for its breathability, lightness, softness, and heat retention, akin to a silk and wool blend. Despite being less durable than wool and more prone to pilling, rips, and tears, cotton remains popular. Its high tensile strength and moisture-wicking capabilities contribute to its extensive production worldwide.

The fabric drapes well on the body, withstands high-temperature washes, and comes in various types, including:

The versatility is unmatched, but its production process and environmental impact are complex and multifaceted.

Its environmental footprint is substantial. It's a crop that requires a lot of water to grow—about 2,700 litres for a single cotton t-shirt. This high water requirement can lead to significant stress on water resources, especially in areas that are already experiencing scarcity.

The Aral Sea crisis, primarily caused by the diversion of rivers for cotton irrigation, is a stark example of the environmental impact of cotton farming. This has shrunk to 10% of its original size due to water diversion for cotton irrigation.

The water footprint highlights a division into 42% blue water (surface and groundwater), 39% green water (rainwater), and 19% grey water (polluted water), underscoring the multifaceted impact of cultivation on water resources. Inefficient water management during irrigation can lead to substantial water loss, exacerbating the strain on freshwater resources.

Moreover, conventional cotton farming uses many pesticides and synthetic fertilisers, which can lead to soil degradation and waterways pollution. Cotton farming consumes 16% of the world's insecticides and 6.8% of herbicides, contributing to soil salinisation and degradation of soil fertility. These chemicals harm the environment and pose health risks to the farmers and communities near the fields.

For instance, in 2017, pesticide poisoning led to the death of dozens of farmers in India's central cotton belt. Additionally, around a thousand were hospitalized, highlighting the acute risks to human health.

Its production also contributes to climate change. Its carbon emissions amount to around 220 million metric tons yearly. Additionally, the heavy use of chemicals in farming can affect the soil's ability to sequester carbon effectively.

Cotton's environmental impact is multifaceted, involving excessive water usage, pollution, and its contribution to climate change. It's a crop that demands a lot of resources and exerts considerable pressure on our planet.

To understand the scale of the environmental impact, it's helpful to break it down into total impact per year, impact per day, and impact per usage.

This data underscores the urgent need for sustainable production and processing practices. Consumers and manufacturers can make informed decisions to mitigate these effects by understanding environmental impact.

A few key players dominate the global production landscape, each contributing significantly to the world's supply. 

The leading cotton-producing countries face the challenge of balancing economic benefits with sustainable practices to ensure the long-term viability of cultivation.

China remains the largest consumer, with a forecasted consumption of 36.5 million bales, followed by India, which consumes 23.7 million bales. However, countries like Vietnam (7.5) and Bangladesh (7.5) are increasing their consumption, reflecting shifts in the global textile industry. In contrast, Mexico's consumption of 1.6 million bales is declining due to competition from Asian textile imports and macroeconomic factors.

This data table provides a snapshot of the global production landscape, emphasising these countries' significant role in the industry. Their collective efforts in cultivation support millions of livelihoods and fuel the global textile market, underscoring the importance of sustainable practices in this sector.

Both brands have committed to increasing the use of sustainable and recycled materials in their products.

Did you know the fashion industry is the world's second-largest polluter after the oil industry? Fast fashion giants like Zara and H&M are under increasing scrutiny for contributing to this environmental damage, particularly in Brazil. The country's cotton production reached a historic high in the 2022-23 season, driven by expanded cultivation.

Zara and H&M have been sourcing cotton from areas in Brazil's Cerrado savanna, which is involved in severe environmental and ethical controversies. Reports have highlighted that this "tainted cotton" has been falsely labelled as ethical by certifications such as Better Cotton despite being linked to land grabbing, corruption, and violence. These practices have not only led to significant environmental degradation but also impacted local communities adversely through the dispossession of land and associated social injustices.

Zara, for instance, produces approximately 840 million garments annually for its global network of stores, contributing to significant environmental degradation in cotton-producing regions. Similarly, H&M, which sells around three billion garments annually, has been criticized for its environmental impact.

This is a significant acceleration in destroying the Cerrado, one of the world's most biodiverse savannas.

Cotton is not inherently toxic. However, the conventional methods used in its cultivation and processing can introduce various toxic substances into the environment and the final products. The toxicity of cotton can be considered from several angles, including the environmental impact of its cultivation. The health effects on those involved in its farming and processing, and the potential for chemical residues in the final products.

The Environmental Justice Foundation reports that farmers spend around £1.6 billion annually on agricultural pesticides, of which a significant portion is highly toxic. Moreover, the production has been linked to substantial water pollution due to the runoff of pesticides and fertilisers. 

Furthermore, toxic chemicals in farming have been linked to numerous health problems among farmers and workers. Pesticides used in production, such as organophosphates, pyrethroids, and neonicotinoids, have been associated with harmful impacts on human health, including neurological and reproductive issues. 

Instances of pesticide poisoning, resulting in symptoms like vomiting, diarrhoea, headaches, and dizziness, have been reported among farmers. The heavy use of these chemicals affects those directly involved in cultivation and poses risks to consumers through residues in the final products.

Yes, cotton is biodegradable. The natural fibre breaks down over time with the help of microorganisms, water, and oxygen. It biodegrades faster than oak leaves, with purified cotton fibres showing 100% average mass loss in septic and sewer systems over a 28-day test period. 

It readily biodegrades in commercial compost and degrades anaerobically (without oxygen) and aerobically (with oxygen). However, the biodegradation process varies depending on environmental conditions and treatments applied to the fabric.

In modern landfills, it degrades more slowly due to the lack of oxygen and water. 

The recycling process is possible and is increasingly becoming a critical component of efforts to create a more sustainable textile industry. It can be recycled from both pre-consumer and post-consumer waste. Pre-consumer waste includes scraps and clippings from the manufacturing process. Post-consumer waste consists of used garments and textiles that consumers have discarded. 

Recycling is crucial in promoting a more sustainable textile industry by reducing waste and conserving resources. 

The recycled market is rising, with projections indicating substantial growth. By 2028, the market value is expected to reach approximately £165 million. This growth is driven by innovations in recycling technology, such as improved mechanical and chemical processes that enhance fibre strength, making recycled cotton comparable to virgin cotton.

Recycling can significantly reduce CO2 and fossil fuel emissions by offsetting the production of new materials. In contrast, it can save up to 20,000 litres of water per kilogram, reducing the need for dyes and minimising waste.

Despite its benefits, recycling faces challenges. High-quality, recyclable cotton waste is limited, and the logistics of collecting and sorting post-consumer waste are complex and costly. For instance, mechanical recycling turns fibres into new yarns, while chemical recycling strengthens the recycled fibres. 

Another concern is the availability of cotton waste suitable for recycling. While pre-consumer waste is relatively easy to collect and recycle, post-consumer waste is more challenging to manage due to issues with collection and sorting. Moreover, post-consumer waste dyes, finishes, and contaminants can further complicate recycling.

There is a growing movement towards more sustainable farming practices. Organic cotton, for example, is grown without synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, and it typically has a lower environmental impact due to reduced chemical inputs. However, it's important to note that organic cotton still requires significant water to grow.

Genetically modified seeds have also been introduced to reduce pesticide use, which has led to other environmental concerns. Initiatives like the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) and Fairtrade are working to improve production's socioeconomic and environmental aspects. Moreover, upcoming EU due diligence rules will push for more sustainable sourcing and better environmental and social risk mitigation.

The industry is exploring eco-friendly processing methods, water-efficient irrigation systems, and developing varieties requiring fewer inputs. 

The impact becomes startlingly clear when we compare the CO2 levels associated with production to everyday items and activities. Organic cotton, while better, still emits 78% fewer CO2 emissions than polyester and 91% fewer than nylon.

Its production emits 2-4 tons of CO2 per hectare annually, contributing to 220 million tons of CO2 emissions worldwide. This is equivalent to the CO2 emissions from approximately 47 million cars driven for a year.

This figure is startling compared to the carbon footprint of other everyday items and activities. For a more precise understanding, let's look at the data table below to compare cotton's CO2 levels to those of other everyday things:

Exploring sustainable alternatives to conventional cotton is crucial in mitigating the environmental impact associated with its production. Here's a list of eco-friendlier options that are gaining popularity:

Cotton is not necessarily better than its alternatives. While it's a natural fibre, conventional cotton farming is resource-intensive, using significant amounts of water and chemicals. Alternatives like organic cotton and hemp offer similar benefits without the harsh environmental impact. 

Materials like bamboo and lyocell are more sustainable and often provide additional benefits such as biodegradability and closed-loop production.

Cotton, often hailed as the "white gold," is pivotal in the global textile industry. Its journey from the fields to fabric encapsulates innovation, economic significance, and environmental impact. 

Data was sourced from USDA, FAO, WWF, and environmental research reports.